Thursday 22 April 2010

A fine vintage

The closest I've ever really got to owning 'vintage clothing' is when I've come away from the charity shop with something. And that hardly counts as vintage, as it's probably only a couple of years old and was no doubt owned by someone just like me who lives two streets away and wore it doing something just as ordinary as going to work (yes, Zara blazer, I'm referring to you. Love you though I do). And while I do own a couple of fabulous gold and white belts from the 70s and 80s (thanks Mum), and these do actually count as being vintage items, there's something about trawling through the magical items in a real vintage store that gets your heart truly fluttering.

And so it is that I ended up in the marvellous Beyond Retro on London's Great Marlborough Street today. A veritable treasure trove of vintage goodies, it's like entering a glittering cave of nostalgia. If you haven't been (there's another one in the East End and also in Brighton www.beyondretro.com), make sure you give yourself a couple of hours, as you'll want to try everything on. In fact, you'll need to, as there's no real size guide when it comes to vintage. And there are hats, sunglasses, boots, bags, belts... and all for bargain prices, considering the quality of the stitching, beading and embellishment involved.

Just thinking about the life that was led by the person who once owned the floor-length, lipstick-red gown peppered with glittering glass beads on the far rail between the prom dresses is enough to get me going. Were they perhaps a singer in a smokey nightclub in Montmartre? Or maybe a glamorous socialite who had similar dresses for every night of the week ready to throw on when yet another yacht party invitation came through the door? I get like this with secondhand books, too. There's more of a mystery to them, a back story. As if opening a doorstop of a novel isn't exciting enough, with its promise of a nailbiting page-turner of a story, replete with beguiling protagonists and intoxicating sentence structure. But when it's been owned by one, two, who-knows-how-many people before you, then the image of someone else curling up in a 
cosy nook with a cuppa and enjoying each twist and turn of the plot the way that you will too, is enough to throw me into an escapist daydream of a world.



Vintage shopping is more than just secondhand - it could be fiftyhand! Or it could indeed be secondhand. The point is, you just never know, so you can create all sorts of images in your head of the life of the person who last wore the item you're holding. Which just makes it all the more exciting, if you ask me. And what else makes it exciting? The fact that, should you buy this mysterious garment full of potential history and fantastical stories, you'll be owning a One-Off, ie, that elusive item that only crops up in a handful of occasions:

a) When you've bought couture
b) When something has been tailor-made for you, or you've run it up yourself (should you have a knack with the sewing machine, lucky thing)
c) When you've made an item unique by customising it.

While I am as much a high-street queen as the next girl, the idea of turning up to an event wearing something identical to the person applying her lippie next to me in the bathroom mirror is a scary one. Particularly when you're a stylist and these things are Not Meant To Happen To You. So buying vintage gets me away from that potential horror story, and is a Godsend if I have a big do coming up.

From everyday pieces, knits, jeans and tailoring to some fabulous over-the-top frou frou frocks, sparkly belts, dress-up-box hats and lite-your-nan-used-to-own handbags, Beyond Retro essentially gives you the thrill of walking into a fancy dress shop.Which is why you need to have a care not to let your inner magpie get too overexcited. 
A friend of mine, who shall remain nameless, once entered Beyond Retro one day with a hangover, 
and left the proud owner of a belly dancing costume. 
You know who you are.

     The belly dancing hangover outfit!

Abstinence makes the heart grow fonder

Shopping Diet: (noun) Applying a healthy non-buying regime to your daily activities, in order to battle the bulge (of receipts in your purse). Involves denial of Essential Items, Key Pieces and Bloody Bargains.
Wardrobe Feeder: (nounSomeone who threatens the success of your shopping diet by tempting you to fall into Buying Territory, in ways such as pointing out Key Pieces,  Bloody Bargains and garments that apparently look like they were "Made for you".
Picture the scene. You’re at Shopaholics Anonymous, regaling the group with how you’ve been dry for almost a month, and they all applaud your retail willpower and bargain-buying abstinence, only for you to then shamefacedly admit that you’d given in to temptation the day before and fallen off the wagon, snapping up a couple of bargains having once again been ensnared by that mischevious trap that goes by the name of Purchase Justification. So while your angelic, halo-wearing Non-Shopping side is yelling “You’ve done so well, don’t spoil it now!”, your devilish Buy It side is shouting “Ooh, but it’s so cheap, you’ll never find anything like it again”, winning you over, spinning tales of that discount you’ll get if you open the store card, and stories about cost per wear and all those soundbites that slip out so easily when you Just. Need. To. Buy. It.  

And it’s bad enough when you’re out shopping alone, trying to resist all the treasures and bargains and designer lookalikes and So On Trend pieces that seem to be mercilessly teasing you when you’re on a shopping diet. But when you’re out with a Wardrobe Feeder – a shopping buddy who oohs and ahhs at everything you pick up, appreciatively eyeing the garments you hold up to yourself and applying logic to every price tag, rationalising your purchases for you, you’ve got no chance. Because YOU know you want to buy it, SHE knows you want to buy it, and instead of warning you about your overdraft and how, with that one purchase, you could buy food for the week, she makes the idea of handing over the cash seem downright sensible. Damn those Wardrobe Feeders! 

Although, be honest; that’s exactly why you took her shopping with you – because she’ll assuage the guilt and make you feel giggly and mischevious rather than hating yourself for buying something you know you can’t afford and don’t need. Let’s face it, if you’d wanted to be reminded of all the reasons you shouldn’t buy something, you’d have gone shopping with your husband.

Diet starts again tomorrow.



Wednesday 21 April 2010

Shoe Love


Well, I promised myself I wouldn't spend any more cashola until at least the end of the month (as my last purchase was officially on 30th March and I'm very proud of myself for having done so well with the non-spendage). However, on doing some shopping research today for a client I'm doing a Super Shopper day with next week, I stumbled across these Prada-esque beauties and had upped and bought them before you could say overdraft. Oops. Mind you, it would have been rude not to because - Justification Alert:

a) Did I mention the Pradaness?
b) Kind of a mid-heel and tres walkable
c) A credit crunch-busting £29.50!!
d) This season's nude tone all wrapped up in a shiny patent bow - literally - have you seen the TDF (To Die For) toe detail?!

Case rested methinks.

Here are the Prada SS10 versions, btw:




I shall forthwith be sporting my M&S Pradas with rolled-up khakis, shirt dresses, jeans and T, wedding outfits, harems, the whole darn lot. Hero Shoe or what?

Saturday 10 April 2010

Making statements

Aintree Ladies' Day.

Wow.


http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1264921/Aintrees-racing-colours-Wall-wall-cleavage-fabulous-frocks-extraordinary-hats.html

Women and shopping

So a survey by OnePoll this week found that British women spend, on average, 399 hours and 46 minutes in a single year shopping for clothes - or three whole years of their lives dedicated to buying clothes, shoes, bags and accessories.

And their point is...?

Wednesday 7 April 2010

Seeing double

Ooh, Wallis, you cheeky devils. Your leather T-shirt is remarkably similar to Celine's one. You really are spoiling us. And we like that 
you do.

                                                        Celine, s/s 2010

                                                         Wallis, £75

Moody dressing

I was thinking this week about how your mood affects how you dress, and did a bit of a straw poll of friends and family to get their thoughts. Not surprisingly, most agreed that on a bit of a down day, they sling 
on the comfiest clothes they own, for a simple sartorial hug. Cosy clothes, after all, can make you feel cosseted and protected from the big, bad world.

Interestingly, one said that she chose a particular Juicy Couture tracksuit as it reminded her of the lovely day when she bought it - memory-inducing clothes! So while her tracksuit is comfortable, it's more the mood-enhancing properties of it that prompt her to reach for it on her less-than-top-form days. Another said she puts on her most oversized, snuggly hoody (no, not the asbo-boasting young'un hanging round the bus stop - so unsnuggly) and joggers, but wouldn't dare leave the house in them for fear of scaring off delicate fashion types. And we've all been there - don't go telling me you haven't got a secret stash of Not To Be Seen In Publics that have you running around in panic when the doorbell rings.

It's usually hangover days or illness that lead me to the brushed cotton and elasticated waists (shoot the stylist), but I've also been known to long for a sweater dress and Uggs, then stop myself short and force myself into something bright, colourful and far more figure-flattering, therefore hoping to fool myself into a better mood. And lo, it often works. As clothing can be empowering and statement-forming, it makes sense that it would. Clothing is often a visual representation of the mood you're in, or the perception you're trying to put out there. Dress like you don't care and you won't. And neither will anyone else.

Mind you, there's also the option of Comfy Chic. One need not walk around like a world-hating sack of spuds on an off-day if one chooses carefully. This season's hareems and leggings are a Godsend if you can't face anything structured, then there are longline cashmere cardies (the ultimate in feelgood) and flat, slouchy ankle boots. Go all-out Utility and you'll be rocking rolled-up khakis, a jersey T-shirt and a slouchy (global print) scarf without a whiff of discomfort, cheering yourself up with the admiring glances you'll be collecting all day.

And then there's denim. Not that I'm suggesting that Off Day is the ideal time to leap into Double Denim and then try desperately to carry off an Uber Trend all day while getting over your grumps (because that, my friends, will most certainly be the day when you go wrong and look like the secret third member of Status Quo - and then, most probably, bump into your ex). However, those comfy weekend jeans you throw on to get the papers will look so much nicer than the bagging-at-the-knee joggers when teamed with a silk-knit T-shirt and a casually thrown on blazer (of the stretchy, jersey variety if you're still too delicate for tailoring - see Oasis, Warehouse, New Look).

Come to think of it, there are also days when I've been Dressed For Success (nude A-line skirt, crisp white shirt, gold jewellery and platform heels) and been so uncomfortable that Success has eluded me. Swapping the platforms for tan loafers made me, literally, feel more grounded and able to get on. Likewise, if you're rocking a look so much that you can't cross the office without being looked at (not always a bad thing), this can also hamper your performance, as you end up feeling self-conscious. If the look is wearing you rather than you wearing the look, forget it, basically. And sometimes blending into the background can have its benefits (particularly if you're a super-spy).

But there's no doubt about it. How you feel changes how you dress - and how you dress changes how you feel, just the same. Thought I'd throw that out there for you. Any thoughts?